Matt
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Bizarre article:
So weird.
THE MYSTERY OF NORTH KOREAN FANS
By PETER WONACOTT
NELSPRUIT, South Africa Following the world's most reclusive soccer team was never going to be an easy. But how hard could it be finding a few of North Korea's supporters?
Pretty hard, it turned out.
A supporter of the North Korea soccer team blows a vuvuzela before the first-round match against Brazil on June 15.
The World Cup spawns legions of soccer lovers. They hang around team hotels, gather in restaurants, debate in bars. They are seen wearing team colors, carrying a country's flag and clumping together in convoys to games.
But North Korean fan support is more complex. It was always going to be difficult generating attendance from a country where the government requires permits to travel beyond one's own town. There were even reports that North Korea had resorted to paying fans from China a country with more liberal travel policies to plump up its World Cup crowds.
And maybe rent-a-fans would be better than the real ones. In a 2005 World Cup qualifying loss to Iran, North Korean fans threw rocks and bottles at the Syrian referee, a shocking display of public disorder in such a tightly-controlled country. A subsequent "home" game for North Korea against Japan had to be moved to Bangkok, where the two teams played before an empty stadium closed to public view.
If there were die-hard North Korean supporters, they'd certainly be needed at Friday's game against Ivory Coast. After losses to Brazil and Portugal, North Korea had been eliminated from tournament's next round. The game was also in Nelspruit, one of the more remote World Cup venues.
I had three days to find these fans.
Wednesday, June 23
The search starts on a promising note. The national team hotel isn't difficult to find. If an isolated authoritarian regime wanted to plunk its soccer squad in the middle of South Africa, this would be the place the four-star Protea Hotel Midrand, in an area between Johannesburg and Pretoria called "Half-way House." The hotel, draped in the flags of Democratic People's Republic of Korea, was sealed off by walls and gates and not within walking distance of much.
"That's why they picked us," reasoned a waiter in the hotel lobby coffee shop. "We are out in the middle of nowhere."
No fans in sight, though, only dour North Korean team officials lounging on couches ahead of a team training session. One waves me off as I sit down next to him. When I pose a question about the upcoming game, he gets up and walks out the hotel door.
The team files through the lobby. The young men wear red shorts and have legs like tree trunks. Quickly and quietly, they board a bus provided by World Cup sponsor Hyundai of South Korea, a country the North doesn't recognize.
Thursday, June 24
Since emails to the team's media officer bounce back, soccer governing body FIFA advises getting in touch with the team's foreign media liaison officer. He says there's a North Korean press conference in Nelspruit on Thursday afternoon. That's followed by a training session, in which the first 15 minutes are open to the media. Maybe some fans have arrived early to savor the final moments of North Korea's World Cup.
After all, these appearances are rare. The first and last time North Korea made it into the World Cup was 44 years ago in England. It enjoyed a miraculous run, advancing to the final 16 and upsetting Italy in the process.
At the press conference, North Korean head coach Kim Jong-hun promises national glory again or at least less humiliation than last game's 7-0 thumping from Portugal.
"We are going to fight," Coach Kim vows. "We will try to restore our honor."
How about North Korean fans? Given that citizens can't freely travel to South Africa, could that affect crowd support and team performance? "Well, I don't think you are well-informed. We can travel abroad freely," he replies. "I think you have been misinformed."
Oh.
Coach Kim looks at his watch. Press conference over. He heads off to the training session and some of us follow. The training ground is half an hour away. When we arrive, it's after the 15 minutes allowed for media access. Stadium guards shoo us away. We complain. North Korea's foreign media liaison shrugs.
Out in the parking lot, there are twice as many police as North Korean players on the field. No fans.
Friday, June 25
It's Game Day.
For South Africa's World Cup hosts cities banking on a flood of soccer tourists, the North Korea-Ivory Coast match is looking problematic. The night before, the Nelspruit's chamber for business and tourism emailed more than 300 members asking whether any were hosting North Korean fans. Not a single reply.
"I am very worried, to be honest," confides chamber manager Kholeka Msane.
At Protea Hotel Nelspruit, more North Korean flags. More security. More dour officials in blue sweat suits, although this time they are lounging poolside. A jittery hotel manager approaches. No North Korean fans are staying here, she says. Media aren't allowed in the hotel, either.
"I'm going to have to ask you to leave," the manager says. "The team needs their privacy."
But what about the Chinese fans for North Korea? In an interview, Wang Qi of the China Sports Event Management, a state-owned enterprise that is organizing trips to South Africa's World Cup, says the reports are rubbish. The Chinese fans paid for their own tickets, he says, and they aren't necessarily rooting for North Korea.
The two Chinese soccer fans I spoke to by phone on their way to the Spain-Chile game certainly weren't acting as proxies for their eastern neighbors. And of course neither the Spanish nor Chilean governments paid for those tickets, either.
At the stadium, the crowd is a sea of orange for Ivory Coast and yellow South African soccer jerseys. Then a North Korean flag goes up at the opposite end of the stadium. It waves defiantly as the team warms up.
After a long walk around Mbombela Stadium, I reach the spot. The flag has disappeared. I look in vain for North Korean fans. There's one woman wearing a North Korean shirt.
It's Maggie Zhou, a 26-year old Chinese executive for an Australian company in Mozambique. She's rooting for all the Asian teams. Japan the previous night. North Korea tonight. All for fun. "The game should just be a game," she says.
North Korea could use more such supporters. They lose 3-0.
So weird.
