Thought I'd watch this finally since HBO is getting rid of it. Tonally and score-wise, it's decent but the story is nothing to write home about at all. The bald guy is evil, Lois is conflicted, and Superman is a hero who does heroic stuff.
For a 150 minute movie, it barely explores the Superman mythos. It doesn't do the character any favors in re-envisioning him for a modern audience the way MOS did. Or even the way Nolan did, who cheated Batman out of his mythos too, but still managed to make the character new and interesting.
Superman Returns falls into the familiar trap of reflecting on Superman sorely as a cartoonish idea, one that feels afraid to embrace him as a character and let us get closer to him emotionally. Superman must always smile! No. It's why I'm glad MOS took a serious approach. Yes he has all these powers and he's invincible, but he's ultimately alone and feels like he has to hide who he is to fit in - a feeling anyone can relate to.