World Web shooter shop class - Part 1

[MarvelFan1]

good point!

 

[MarvelFan1]

hey white widow, can you send a link to the high pressure air chamber, because i cant find it?

 

[White_widow]

which one? There are three kinds.

 

[MarvelFan1]

the one which uses pvc pipe.

 

[MarvelFan1]

but anyone is good!

 

[White_widow]

Well, acetone will eat that, but ok.

Anyway, the cartridge design is based on a potato gun/ t-shirt cannon. The cartridges can be big, small, or whatever the parker's preference. For a reference on how to do this:

Build Process

High Pressure Air Chamber


Make no mistake, this is the MOST DANGEROUS PART OF YOUR GUN (to you). Take your time, and make sure that EVERYTHING seems 100% right, if something seems "off" scrap it and build another one. The parts are cheap, your arms, legs, and everything in-between are not. Make sure you read through (and understand) this entire section BEFORE you start.
Now, before we start. Forget everything you were taught in 2nd grade about gluing. Gluing these parts is going to get messy, put down some news paper or drop cloths before you start. The general process of gluing PVC is such: Primer both components (ex. Outside diam of pipe, inside diam of fitting), apply PVC glue to both components (on top of primer), Insert FULLY and give 1/4 twist & hold for 30 seconds. Ok, read this next sentence like four or five times, it will save you headaches down the line:
USE TONS OF PRIMER, and 2x TONS of GLUE. (Seriously glob that glue on there, both sides. You want to make sure you have a good seal)
Start by using your hacksaw to cut a 10" length of 3" [COLOR=white !important][COLOR=white !important]PVC [COLOR=white !important]Pipe[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR], you may need to use a utility knife to clean the edges of any stray PVC. Primer & glue the 3" end cap on one side, and the 3" coupler on the other.

After a few minutes, Primer & Glue the 3" x 2" (non threaded) bushing into the 3" Coupler. Once give it a few minutes to cure.
As PVC is unforgiving when it explodes, it is VERY IMPORTANT that we don't over pressurize our air chamber, we can accomplish this by using a a safety valve. The 115 PSI Safety valve will open once the internal pressure hits 115PSI allowing excess pressure to escape. This ensures that the air chamber doesn't become over pressurized and explode. Do not skip this part!!!

The Schrader valve is used to charge our air chamber with either an air compressor or a standard bike pump. Even though later we will discuss charging it via CO2, it is nice to have a secondary means. As you can see below, I chose to mount my Safety release valve on the rear of chamber, and the Schrader valve on the side. I would recommend mounting both on the side, as it is structurally stronger mounting into double layers of PVC. (One layer creates a potential stress point) Just make sure that neither would be pointing at you should they "blow off" and that both are easily accessible.
Decide (and mark) your desired locations for both the Schrader & [COLOR=white !important][COLOR=white !important]Safety [COLOR=white !important]Valves[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]. Before you actually drill and mount these parts, You might want to take a couple practice drills into one end of your UNUSED left over 3" PVC pipe, you have plenty. Remember, practice makes perfect.

Using a 1/2" drill bit (in a drill press if possible) SLOWLY drill the hole for the Safety valve, ensuring you stay level while you drill. Switch to your 3/8" Drill bit and SLOWLY drill for the Schrader valve. Hand thread both in, then use a wrench slowly snug them down, making sure not to strip the self "tapped" PVC.


Drill a 3/8" hole directly in the middle of top of the 1" Plug & set aside. Using your hacksaw to cut a 3" length of 2" PVC Pipe, you may need to use a utility knife to clean the edges of any stray PVC. Primer/Glue the 2" x 1" Bushing (non threaded) into the bottom of the 2" Tee, then the 3"x2" PVC pipe into one side of the 2" Tee, the 1" plug into the 2" x 1" (non threaded) bushing, and finally the 2" x 1" (threaded) into the remaining side on the Tee.


Source:http://www.i-hacked.com/content/view/283/48

Modify the design based on your preferences. I suggest you use two end caps and forego the pressure relief valve as you will be making one.

Now you've made your cartridge, filled it with fluid, and pressurized it.



and for a solvent resistant one:

http://www.amazon.com/AES-Industrie...49954&sr=1-1&keywords=aluminum+reusable+spray


and for a cheap solvent resistant one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1RBuoK4FLA

the third one.

 

[SUP]

'Scuse me, but does somebody can tell me what is that "Arduino" thing pls

 

[MarvelFan1]

thanks white widow, but how would you be able to shoot it? how would you make a trigger?

 

[MarvelFan1]

and an arduino is a microcontroller and a software to program it. similiar to a computer chip.

 

[TheWeb]

Use a sensor, pretty simple

 

[Iron_spider]

This is the front view of my web shooter design.

The spinneret (motor) and valve are powered by a battery/batteries that are on the shooter itself, mounted on the forearm.

 

[Iron_spider]

The back view.

The air compressor is powered by batteries that are in the belt.

 

[MarvelFan1]

here's my way of making a milk and crackers web shooters:http://marvelfan22.deviantart.com/#/d530i7a
on the palm is a pump. when the pump is pressed by the two fingers, the air is pushed into the cartridge. because the cartridge is already pressured, the safety valve allows the excess air and fluid to flow through the nozzle once it goes over 115 psi.

 

[White_widow]

Nice drawing guys. You're pretty good at that! ^^ Also Iron spider, I like your design, but the battery is baffling to me. you'll need a battery that can support a compressor, the valve, and whatever other techy stuff you have.

To Marvel Fan- The long and short of it is, it depends on the valve you choose to use. I'm thinking about using a whipped cream valve. As for the thing about your picture, I commend you. This is the ABSOLUTE first time that I've been impressed by the creativity of an idea. That's brilliant. Using a safety valve as the spinneret, while using a pump to add air! That's BEAUTIFUL. That is the only logical way that a the valve could be that small without resolving to an aerosol valve. I'm seriously impressed. Do you mind if I use that idea? The only modification I would make would be to move the pressure tube to right next to the relief valve. Less strain on the pump's tube you know?

This is not to say anything against any one else, but every idea thus far has been either rehashes of JMA610, the comics/movies, or my ideas, just in a different way. This is unique in a way I haven't seen in months.

 

[Iron_spider]

Apologies, I didn't make it clear in my picture. I'm using two (or more) batteries. One set will be for the motor and valve, and the other for the compressor.

On another note, I have to agree with White_widow. Marvel Fan, that's awesome. Plain and simple. Kudos, man.

 

[MarvelFan1]

thank you so much white widow! that is a real honor to hear that, especially from you. of course you can use my design, and feel free to go even farther from there! t:

 

[MarvelFan1]

http://marvelfan22.deviantart.com/#/d531fzd
here is a model of my crackers and milk shooter. It is only made of cardbord, tape, glue, that thing that is used for your ear and a little piece of rope(i will admit to playing with this thing, pretending its a real shooter).

 

[SUP]

Tnxs for that info @MarvelFan and @IronSpider, i think your design would be awesome for a sorta of "Spider-Armor"

 

[White_widow]

ok. So everyone has an idea for their shooter's pressure vessel and valve? Let's start to talk about specifics.

Pressure vessel: I think when it comes to pressure vessels, Iron spider could carry the most fluid. Assuming that he protected his tank with some kind of plastic armor, I think that his design would make for a more realistic style, due to it's possible gallon payload.

Cans are a second best option, but they have the issue of constantly having to refill. Depending on how much you go for this option though, it could get you a decent amount of fluid. Combine this with the tank, and you'd be golden.

cartridges are the bane of this project. They are small, hold little to no fluid, and are hard to replace on the go. If you decide to go this route, make your cartridges able to hold at least 4 oz. At most you'll want 8 oz.



Valves: When it comes to valve designs, the most compact and safe has to be Marvel fan. using a safety valve makes it so that it can't over pressurize and keeps the pressure steady. It has one glaring flaw though. Once you run out of fluid, it's hard to replace without releasing all of the current air. If you don't, then you have to wait, release all the air, and hook the schrader valve to a fuel line. This option is best left for concealing in public (though you would need a smaller bulb.)

The second best it in lean valves. Helium tank balloon valves are a prime example. They are small, modifiable, and can be rigged to be a great shooter.

Third best: release valve. It's a little more stiff to work with, but it'll do wonders allowing it to be filled up and fire out with the same valve.

fourth: Solenoid. I'm not sure if you guys know this, but solenoid valves consume a lot of energy, have to release fluid in an "L" shape, and are rather large. (Even the small ones are annoying to work with. The advantage with working with these though is that you can control them easier with a micro controller, and you can do even more with them than you can with other valves. Also, the ability to program a double tap allows the user unlimited control to when the fluid fires.

Now that I've gone over the Pros and Cons, here's the next thing to think about.

EASY upgrades: how is your shooter refilled? Are there any ways to improve the design? Do you have a little toy gun with a rotating spinneret? all of these things could help give your shooter some extra flair.

Future upgrades: We will have to add a heating system. It's the only way to get rid of the acetone quickly enough. I'm thinking either a glue gun type heating element, or a few high powered lights with refracting walls around them. I'm a fan of the latter, but the former is going to be less maintenance.

then there's that whole spinneret deal. I'm going to make mine like a spray bottle in the future. twist the front and it will come in a pencil thick stream, or a wide cone of fluid. Some of you want to use a braid style spinneret. I'd consider how you make that, because you will need a micro-controller for something like that.


Any ideas or comments?

 

[Iron_spider]

When I was going to use a weed spray tank system, I considered using the spray wand and its valve as well. I thought about creating some kind of string rig to press down the thumb button when the middle and ring finger are pulled down.

 

[White_widow]

I've recently given some thought to a string ring as well. I got the idea from assassin's creed's hidden blade. I think it will work fine for what you are using it for.

back to that tank, what are your thoughts about mobility with something like that? A lot of you guys want to do parkour with this thing. The only parkour move that I know of that is necessary for heights is the shoulder roll. Will that tank have any problems being rolled on?

 

[WebShooterGuy]

Well, it might not need to be rolled on if the webs are strong enough. You could web something as you fell so you didn't have to roll. Otherwise, we'd have to flatten it to the body, or make it smooth and strong enough to be rolled on.

 

[MarvelFan1]

white widow, i meant that the schrader valve would be on the bottom of the cartridge and the safety valve would be on the top, but they both are attached to the cartridge. so all you would do is insert the schrader valve into the pump, which is wrapped around the part that been on your wrist and hidden and glue into the bottom of the shooter, where the schrader valve will go in.

 

[White_widow]

To webshooter guy: I was going to go with oval design, but that works too. I don't know though, wouldn't you end up sticking to your own web by doing that? Also, the shoulder roll is necessary to disperse shock. It's so effective in fact, that the good people at fight science were blown away by how low the impact is when you roll. It turns a two story drop into nothing more than a hop in terms of force.

I think I'd rather change the design slightly than give up one of the most effective movements that man can make.

While we are on the subject, I think it's important to note that the web shooter (as long as be are talking parkour, as many of you claim to want it for) should be able to do these two motions without damage to the shooter or person. Not to mention mis-fires.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=62cPyjPPBmo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wi8DemLNLbY

To Marvel Fan: I guess I'm still kind of confused. From what I can tell, it's a permanent cartridge, but how do you refill? The way you've set it up (still loving it!) is that it will always have a consistent pressure of 115 psi. Always. Once you charge it the first time, it will always hit that pressure. Things can come in, but it will never lose anything under 115. So the problem is not so much location, but rather, if you add fluid, won't it automatically expel? Whether or not there is fluid in the cartridge, it will remain 115. The second you add the fluid, the pressure will rise and you either lose the fluid or air, or both, but it will always be 115.

All I'm suggesting is that you add a third valve. That way when you are out of fluid, you can remove the air in there so that you don't risk losing so much on refill.

 

[Iron_spider]

Although using the shooter for parkour would be pretty cool, that's not what I intend to use it for. Mostly because I would probably hurt myself if I tried any of that stuff :P

But for the people who do want to do parkour with the tank design, I would suggest spreading the tank out across more of the back. In my design, the tank extends inches from the back. But you might be able to spread the volume over a larger area. Then I would suggest covering the outside with something like d3o. It's a relatively new material that normally acts like a liquid, but when quick force is applied acts like a strong solid. It's used for sports in stuff like pads and what not, to prevent athletes from hurting themselves in long or hard falls.

I'd keep the oval, but just spread it out more. And it doesn't have to be a lot of spread either. It's just the way I imagine it, the tank bulges from the body a bit, which probably will have issues being rolled on. If you made less bulge and covered it with something shock absorbent I think it'd be fine.