Batman Returns really is an atmospheric masterpiece. The performances are all fascinating, particularly DeVito's (which I honestly thought trumped Nicholson's Joker). The sets and backgrounds are all breathtaking. The themes and interactions between the characters are all intriguing and moving. But what I remember most of all about Batman Returns is the music. I think Batman Returns was the zenith of Danny Elfman's creative genius. As masterful as the score to the first film was, Elfman expounded upon it and made it a more complete and more effective piece in Batman Returns. As much as I love Batman '89, I have to say that as a whole Batman Returns is the better film.
And I don't care what anyone says. Both Burton movies are extremely faithful adaptations of the Batman character. In fact, I'd say they are dead on interpretations of the Kane/Finger Batman. Some comic fans just don't realize that there are more Batman comics than Year One and The Long Halloween.