I guess I'm in the minority that likes it...
It's more mixed than anything. I personally still love it. It's exactly what I hoped for for a season 2 that's totally it's own thing and it's delivering in unexpected ways. I can certainly see the criticisms. Vince Vaughn's casting isn't the best, I can see why people don't like McAdams (I love her though, but I could have seen Elizabeth Moss in this role do as good if not better job), and see why people say Ray is the best character. He clearly is. The intent with writing is that every character should be just as interesting in their own ways. And if it's disproportionately skewed towards ONE of the FOUR characters, then that's either a writing or a casting problem. Personally, I think that's more of a casting problem. Because on paper all of these characters are fascinating.
I can do without the huge land sub plot. It's a lot of lingo that's difficult to follow sometimes but Pizzolatto pares it down to the basics when needed.
But it's no different than some the first season got in my book. Different criticisms just laid out differently. Episode 6 is the weakest episode of season one, Marty's storyline not being as interesting as Rust's, the resolution and revealing of the murderer and of the Yellow King and the whole climax which didn't have the biggest praise in the world. Then of course the female and copy write criticisms (both unwarranted there) For God's sake, someone told me the first half of season one was better than the last half which went downhill. That's certainly in the minority, but still there's all these weird things where I won't put season one on some pedestal like some critics do. I remember checking various review websites last year for season one and they all had their criticisms and nit picks too. Season one was lightening in a bottle sure but season two doesn't aspire to be like season one. Though there's a difference between that and valid criticisms which people do really have, which is ok. Some people just don't like this season.
I'll say though season one's direction just killed it and was a big reason it was just so good, aside from the writing to necessitate that. So it makes season one stick out a bit more. This season follows 99% of how television shows work in a production sense. If we had Fukinaga or someone like him, I think it would help. But great writing can make due on its own. Sopranos didn't have any fancy directing but the writing carried it, same goes for most great television.
Regardless, I loved this episode. So much happened to advance the characters for me and finally Paul isn't so mysterious anymore. That scene between he and his mother was terrific. Ray finding out he killed the wrong man (interesting the scar on his upper lip. I assume the man he wrongly killed gave it to him and he grew the mustache to hide it from people and himself) , Frank sinking deeper into his past life and Jordan finally cracking him, Ani making effort to change herself while still holding onto her integrity. There were so many well written scenes. Especially the Ani and Ray scene in the Black Rose. McAdams isn't a natural fit in this role and again I could see someone else in it too, but I personally love her and in this scene.
I can't wait to see where it goes and how it ends, in order for me to completely look at it. And I just want Pizzolatto to come out and talk about the damn thing.