I think most people are just harsh on this show now because they overrated it in the first place. It's always been a "B" show to me. It's relied on some cheesy devices like an overabundance of narration and Harry to get its ideas across from the very beginning. Somewhat out of necessity due to the nature of the show, but these things are not the mark of great, subtle writing. It's part character study, part networky crime show. It's its own funky mix of the two. Always has been.
I just go easy on it because I never had the highest expectations for it. I've stayed with it over the years because it's entertaining, twisted and has an insanely watchable lead in Michael C. Hall. It's never been a brilliantly written show IMO. Moments of brilliance, yes. But even in its prime it was never consistently brilliant. It's always been "guest of the week" style writing where each season is kind of its own thing with a new supporting character as the focus. It's never been this cohesive overarching thing that I guess we all were hoping it'd be somehow. There are broad strokes to the overall progression, but it's never been a show where every little detail pays off in the most unexpectedly dramatic and poignant ways. Each season is its own thing, and this season definitely seems to be like a hodgepodge of a lot of various Dexter-isms, plus some new stuff. I kind of enjoy that aspect of paying tribute to the show in the final season.
There's no doubt about it...9 episodes in and my mind has yet to be blown. I expected all the cards to be on the table sooner, and they have waited a bit too long to set everything up IMO. But it's not this abomination of television that people are making it out to be, not by a longshot. It's not THAT far off the mark for Dexter standards. Of course, if the ending fails to have any impact whatsoever and it's all for nothing, then I'll agree with the critics. Until then, there are still the final 3 episodes of this series to watch and judge.